Characterization of banned colorants in cosmetics: A tandem mass-based molecular networking approach.

Colorants have been a staple in the cosmetics industry for a considerable time, although certain varieties have been banned owing to health risks. Detecting and confirming these banned colorants simultaneously poses several challenges when employing LC-MS/MS. Molecular networking is a promising analytical technology that can be used to predict the structure of components and the correlation between them using structural and MS/MS spectral similarities. Molecular networking entails assessing the number of fragmented ions and the cosine score (the closer it is to one, the higher the similarity). In this study, we developed and verified a method for the simultaneous quantitative analysis of the 26 banned colorants in cosmetics using LC-MS/MS. Additionally, we propose a novel approach that combines LC-Q-TOF-MS and molecular networking technology to detect banned colorants in cosmetics. For successful molecular networking, a minimum of six fragment ions with cosine scores exceeding 0.5 is required. We developed a screening method for characterizing banned colorants using molecular networking based on LC-TOF-MS results for 26 banned colorants. Furthermore, we demonstrated that our established method can be used for screening by analyzing actual cosmetics (eyebrow tattoo, lipstick tattoo, and hair tint) spiked with three non-targeted banned colorants with similar structures (m/z 267.116, 315.149, and 345.157) in cosmetics. The combination of molecular networking techniques and LC-MS/MS proves highly advantageous for the swift characterization and screening of non-targeted colorants in cosmetics.

Zinc Phenolsulfonate.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1986 and a previous re-review in 2004, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Zinc Phenolsulfonate is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Market analysis of the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetic products intended for oncological patients and other vulnerable groups.

There is growing concern about the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in cosmetics. We aimed to identify the main cosmetic ingredients with suspected endocrine-disrupting properties, and analyse their presence in current marketed products. Particular attention was given to products intended for susceptible (due to physiological status) and vulnerable (due to specific pathologies) groups with a view to informing cosmetologists and related health professionals of the scientific basis and current status of any concerns. Suspected EDCs used as cosmetic ingredients, included in lists published by regulatory agencies, were documented and investigated by weight of evidence analysis based on endocrine-related toxicity studies. In total, 49 suspected EDCs were identified from a sample of over a thousand cosmetic products marketed in the European Union. Suspected EDCs were found in approximately one third of products, with a similar frequency in products intended for susceptible and vulnerable groups. Avobenzone (CAS number:70356-09-1), octisalate (CAS number: 118-60-5), and butylated hydroxytoluene (CAS number: 128-37-0) were mostly commonly identified. The presence of EDCs was particularly high for sun care cosmetic products. Our results highlight potentially significant exposure through cosmetics to substances currently studied by regulatory institutions as suspected endocrine disrupters. EDCs are not yet universally regulated, and informing health professionals and educating the population as a precaution are options to reduce individual exposure levels, especially in vulnerable and susceptible groups. Special recommendations are needed for products intended for oncological patients.

Evaluation of a daily facial massage on perceived sleep quality and well-being: A pilot study.

OBJECTIVE: Sleep disorders are widespread and constitute a major public health risk. The present study thus aims to investigate the effect of a facial cosmetic self-massage daily routine on women's sleep and well-being. METHODS: The present pilot study was conducted on 62 middle-aged women declaring daily tiredness and sleep troubles. We examined the effect of a regular facial cosmetic self-massage routine on sleep patterns, daytime sleepiness, and well-being over the course of 2 months. RESULTS: After 1 and 2 months, our results show improved sleep quality (Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI - -20.2% after 2 months), reduced daytime sleepiness (Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS, -31.2% after 2 months), and increased well-being measures. The number of participants with abnormal sleep (PSQI >5) decreased over the course of the experiment as well, from 71.9% to 49.2% at the end of the 2 months [odds ratio 95% CI for decrease: 0.38 (0.18-0.81)]. Similarly, the number of participants with excessive daytime sleepiness (>10 on the ESS) decreased over the course of the study from 44.3% to 21% after 1 month [95% CI: 0.33 (0.15-0.73)] and to 16.1% after 2 months [95% CI: 0.24 (0.10-0.56)]. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that a facial cosmetic self-massage routine may improve sleep patterns and is likely to be a useful addition to a standard sleep hygiene routine.

OBJECTIF: Les troubles du sommeil sont répandus et constituent un risque majeur pour la santé publique. La présente étude vise donc à examiner l'effet d'une routine quotidienne d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage sur le sommeil et le bien­être des femmes. MÉTHODES: La présente étude pilote a été menée auprès de 62 femmes d'âge moyen déclarant une fatigue quotidienne et des troubles du sommeil. Nous avons examiné l'effet d'une routine régulière d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage sur les habitudes de sommeil, la somnolence diurne et le bien­être sur une période de deux mois. RÉSULTATS: Après un et deux mois, nos résultats montrent une amélioration de la qualité du sommeil (échelle de qualité du sommeil de Pittsburgh [Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI]: −20.2% après deux mois), une diminution de la somnolence diurne (échelle de somnolence d'Epworth [Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS]: −31.2% après deux mois) et une augmentation des valeurs dans les mesures du bien­être. Le nombre de participantes présentant un sommeil anormal (PSQI > 5) a également diminué au cours de l'expérience, passant de 71.9% à 49.2% à la fin des deux mois [rapport de cotes avec IC à 95% pour la diminution: 0.38 (0.18­0.81)]. De même, le nombre de participantes présentant une somnolence diurne excessive (>10 sur l'échelle ESS) a diminué au cours de l'étude passant de 44.3% à 21% après un mois [IC à 95%: 0.33 (0.15­0.73)] et à 16.1% après 2 mois [IC à 95%: 0.24 (0.10­0.56)]. CONCLUSIONS: Ces résultats indiquent qu'incorporer une routine d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage peut favoriser de meilleures habitudes de sommeil, et qu'elle pourrait être bénéfique en complément d'une routine d'hygiène du sommeil habituelle.

Laneth Acetates.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1982 and a previous re-review in 2002, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Laneth-9 Acetate and Laneth-10 Acetate are safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Study of Processing Conditions during Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Deer By-Product Tallow for Targeted Changes at the Molecular Level and Properties of Modified Fats.

In most cases, the unused by-products of venison, including deer tallow, are disposed of in rendering plants. Deer tallow contains essential fatty acids and can be used to prepare products for everyday food and advanced applications. This work aimed to process deer tallow into hydrolyzed products using microbial lipases. A Taguchi design with three process factors at three levels was used to optimize the processing: amount of water (8, 16, 24%), amount of enzyme (2, 4, 6%), and reaction time (2, 4, 6 h). The conversion of the tallow to hydrolyzed products was expressed by the degree of hydrolysis. The oxidative stability of the prepared products was determined by the peroxide value and the free fatty acids by the acid value; further, color change, textural properties (hardness, spreadability, stickiness, and adhesiveness), and changes at the molecular level were observed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The degree of hydrolysis was 11.8-49.6%; the peroxide value ranged from 12.3 to 29.5 µval/g, and the color change of the samples expressed by the change in the total color difference (∆E*) was 1.9-13.5. The conditions of enzymatic hydrolysis strongly influenced the textural properties: hardness 25-50 N, spreadability 20-40 N/s, and stickiness < 0.06 N. FTIR showed that there are changes at the molecular level manifested by a decrease in ester bonds. Enzymatically hydrolyzed deer tallow is suitable for preparing cosmetics and pharmaceutical matrices.

XRF calibration with low-cost samples and implementation for quantification of inorganic elements in lipsticks.

In this paper, the preparation of low-cost samples, for the calibration of an energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence system is presented. The entire procedure is proposed as an undergraduate or postgraduate student laboratory activity, which aims to familiarize students with the procedure of calibration of a spectroscopy-based analytical method through the XRF technique. Furthermore, the use of XRF for the determination of elemental concentrations in samples related to students' interests, was attempted.

Safety assessment of Paeonia lactiflora root extract for a cosmetic ingredient employing the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach.

Botanical extracts, widely used in cosmetics, pose a challenge to safety assessment due to their complex compositions. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, offering a safe exposure level for cosmetic ingredients, proves to be a promising solution for ensuring the safety of cosmetic ingredients with low exposure level. We assessed the safety of Paeonia lactiflora root extract (PLR), commonly used in skin conditioning products, with the TTC. We identified 50 constituents of PLR extract from the USDA database and literature exploration. Concentration of each constituent of PLR extract was determined with the information from USDA references, literature, and experimental analysis. The genotoxicity of PLR and its constituents was assessed in vitro and in silico respectively. Cramer class of the constituents of the PLR extract was determined with Toxtree 3.1 extended decision tree using ChemTunes®. Systemic exposure of each constituent from leave-on type cosmetic products containing PLR at a 1% concentration was estimated and compared with respective TTC threshold. Two constituents exceeding TTC threshold were further analyzed for dermal absorption using in silico tools, which confirmed the safety of PLR extract in cosmetics. Collectively, we demonstrated that the TTC is a useful tool for assessing botanical extract safety in cosmetics.

Advances in the production of biosurfactants as green ingredients in home and personal care products.

Home and personal care industry is currently witnessing a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic surfactants. This increase is fueled by concerns over the delayed degradation and environmental impact of the latter. To this, biosurfactants possess important properties such as biodegradability, low toxicity, and renewable sourcing. These qualities position them as compelling replacements of traditional synthetic surfactants. Their diverse attributes including emulsification, antimicrobial efficacy, surface tension reduction, and foaming capability, make them well-suited choices for home and personal care products. Biosurfactants can be produced through several inexpensive and renewable sources which contributes to their commercialization potential. This article discusses various microbial derived biosurfactants including rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosyl-erythritol lipids, trehalolipids and lipopeptides, unraveling and comparing their distinctive roles and advantages in the home and personal care industry. It also focuses on the recent patent innovations in the production of biosurfactants which have aimed at improving their economic viability and performance attributes. Finally, the article sheds light on the challenges and future trajectories for better integration of these sustainable biosurfactants into mainstream consumer products.

Skin Deep: The Potential of Microbiome Cosmetics.

The interplay between the skin microbiome and its host is a complex facet of dermatological health and has become a critical focus in the development of microbiome cosmetics. The skin microbiome, comprising various microorganisms, is essential from birth, develops over the lifespan, and performs vital roles in protecting our body against pathogens, training the immune system, and facilitating the breakdown of organic matter. Dysbiosis, an imbalance of these microorganisms, has been implicated in a number of skin conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and skin cancer. Recent scientific findings have spurred cosmetic companies to develop products that preserve and enhance the skin's microbial diversity balance. These products may incorporate elements like prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics, which are beneficial for the skin microbiome. Beyond topical products, there's increasing interest in ingestible beauty supplements (i.e. oral probiotics), highlighting the connection between the gut and skin. This review examines the influence of the microbiome on skin health and the emerging trends of microbiome skincare products.

Toward the eco-friendly cosmetic cleansing assisted by the micro-bubbly jet.

While numerous types of chemical cosmetic cleansers have been presented, those with sensitive skin may still experience some irritation while using them. Moreover, the environmental issue of chemical agents has been documented repeatedly. To address these, we suggest the potential application of a micro-sized bubble-laden water jet to cleanse the cosmetics without (or less) using chemical detergents. We devised a venturi-type nozzle with a mesh and air holes capable of generating massive fine bubbles. By testing with the foundation and lip tint (known to be highly adhesive) coated on the synthetic leather and artificial skin surfaces, we measured that the cleansing performance of the bubbly jet is much better (even without the chemical agent) than the single-phase liquid jet. As a mechanism for enhanced removal, it is understood that the greater kinetic energy of the jet due to the acceleration of the effective liquid-air mixture flow and the direct bubble-cosmetic collisions play essential roles. We believe that the present results will spur the development of environment-friendly cleaning methods.

Evaluation of Risk Factors Associated With Adult-Onset Acne in Patients Attending a Tertiary Care Center in East India: A Case-Control Study.

BACKGROUND: In recent years, the aesthetic appearance of the skin has emerged as a crucial factor influencing perceptions of beauty and contributing to self-confidence. The pursuit of flawless skin represents a prevalent focus within beauty regimens. Adult-onset acne (AOA) is the development of acne between the ages of 26 to 50 and it is emerging as a prevalent dermatological concern among this population. Individuals perceiving their skin as falling short of an 'ideal' standard may let it affect their quality of life. Significant gaps in our understanding persist regarding the contributing risk factors for AOA. OBJECTIVE: The study aims to assess both established and novel risk factors potentially influencing the onset of adult acne. Additionally, it seeks to calculate the odds ratio (OR) for AOA in both females and males exposed to the surveyed risk factors over a 24-month period. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Various risk factors were assessed, including stress, hormonal markers, psychological factors, environmental exposures, dietary habits, and cosmetic use. A total of 140 participants, consisting of 70 healthy individuals were selected. Discordant groups were analyzed for AOA. Detailed interviews were conducted to obtain a comprehensive medical history, focusing on potential risk factors, for patients diagnosed with acne. The OR was calculated to determine the likelihood of association between risk factors and the development of AOA. A proper protocol was devised, and statistical data was analyzed using Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS; IBM Corp., Armonk, NY, USA). RESULTS: The most significant risk factors in the development of AOA in the Indian population based on OR and confidence interval (CI) were positive personal history of acne (OR 3.12 [95% CI 1.20 - 8.03]), positive family history of acne (OR 10.24 [95% CI 2.89 - 36.1]), overweight BMI (OR 6.16 [95% CI 2.56 - 14.76]), hormonal imbalance (OR 9.27 [95% CI 2.03 - 42.29]), menstrual irregularity in females (OR 12.94 [95% CI 3.59 - 46.53]), exposure to mineral oil or halogenated hydrocarbon use (OR 4.13 [95% CI 1.28 - 13.24]), less than six hours of sleep (OR 4.16 [95% CI 1.10 - 15.64]), chemical peels in females (OR 11.28 [95% CI 2.45 - 51.90]), diet consisting mainly of carbohydrates, high salt, saturated fats (OR 29.97 [95% CI 3.84 - 227.25]) and less than 2 liters of water intake in patients (OR 19.18 [95% CI 1.08 - 339.04]). Risk factors that were associated with a decreased likelihood of AOA included normal menstruation (OR 0.03 [95% CI 0.01 - 0.12]), healthy oral intake (OR 0.04 [95% CI 0.00 - 0.17]), no psychological stressors/depression/anxiety (OR 0.43 [95% CI 0.21 - 0.85]), no environmental factors (OR 0.07 [95% CI 0.02 - 0.24]), no associated cosmetic use (OR 0.45 [95% CI 0.22 - 0.90]), normal BMI (OR 0.18 [95% CI 0.07 - 0.39]), no history of acne (OR 0.12 [95% CI 0.05 - 0.26]). CONCLUSION: AOA is a complex and multifactorial condition, and most of the risk factors mentioned in this study on Indian skin type contribute to its development. The approach for AOA should be holistic. In addition to following a recommended treatment protocol, education should be provided about lifestyle modification, stress management, exercise, and environmental factors to help prevent and manage AOA.

Plant gums in Pickering emulsions: A review of sources, properties, applications, and future perspectives.

Recently, there has been an increasing research interest in the development of Pickering emulsions stabilized with naturally derived biopolymeric particles. In this regard, plant gums, obtained as plant exudates or from plant seeds, are considered promising candidates for the development of non-toxic, biocompatible, biodegradable and eco-friendly Pickering stabilizers. The main objective of this review article is to provide a detailed overview and assess the latest advances in the formulation of Pickering emulsions stabilized with plant gum-based particles. The plant gum sources, types and properties are outlined. Besides, the current methodologies used in the production of plant gum particles formed solely of plant gums, or through interactions of plant gums with proteins or other polysaccharides are highlighted and discussed. Furthermore, the work compiles and assesses the innovative applications of plant gum-based Pickering emulsions in areas such as encapsulation and delivery of drugs and active agents, along with the utilization of these Pickering emulsions in the development of active packaging films, plant-based products and low-fat food formulations. The last part of the review presents potential future research trends that are expected to motivate and direct research to areas related to other novel food applications, as well as tissue engineering and environmental applications.

Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Hydroxyethyl Urea, which is reported to function as a humectant and a hair and skin conditioning agent. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of this ingredient. The Panel concluded that Hydroxyethyl Urea is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Safety Assessment of Capryloyl Salicylic Acid as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reassessed the safety of Capryloyl Salicylic Acid in cosmetic products; this ingredient is reported to function as a skin conditioning agent. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of this ingredient in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination that Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Polysilicone-11 as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Polysilicone-11 as used in cosmetic formulations. This ingredient is reported to function as a film former. The Panel considered the available data and concluded that Polysilicone-11 is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Analysis of preservatives and fragrances in topical medical devices: The need for more stringent regulation.

INTRODUCTION: Medical devices (MDs) have a long history of use, and come with regulatory frameworks to ensure user safety. Although topically applied MDs in the form of gels and creams might be used on damaged skin, their composition is often similar to that of cosmetic products applicable to intact skin, especially in terms of preservatives and fragrances. However, unlike cosmetics, these products are not subject to compound-specific restrictions when used in MDs. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to identify and quantify preservatives and fragrances in topically applied MDs and assess their safety towards the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. METHOD: Sixty-nine MDs available on the EU market were subjected to previously validated liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) methods to identify and quantify occurring preservatives and fragrances. RESULTS: Findings revealed that 32% of the examined MDs did not provide comprehensive ingredient lists, leaving users uninformed about potential risks associated with product use. Furthermore, 30% of these MDs would not meet safety standards for cosmetic products and, most significantly, 13% of the analysed samples contained ingredients that are prohibited in leave-on cosmetics. CONCLUSION: Results highlight the pressing demand for more stringent requirements regarding the labelling and composition of MDs to enhance patient safety. Improved regulation and transparency can mitigate potential risks associated with the use of topically applied MDs.

Safety Assessment of Basic Red 76 as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Basic Red 76, which is reported to function in cosmetics as a hair colorant and hair-conditioning agent. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of this ingredient. The Panel concluded that Basic Red 76 is safe for use as a hair dye ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment.